“I am all about colours,” says designer Mayyur Girotra, who marks 15 years in the fashion industry in 2024. “That’s how I derive my inspiration from. I’ll start taking pictures, I archive…. I’m that person who will halt in the middle of the street just to capture a hoarding with a killer colour combo.”

His love for colours reflects in the latest collection, Lohri, as well. Designed to celebrate the harvest festival, the line includes an array of Patiala salwars, short shirts, kurtas and pyjamas—all reimagined with a contemporary twist. The salwar, for instance, gets more voluminous and heavily embroidered. The narrow bottom pant, on the other hand, offers a snug fit, with the Gurugram-based designer adding a subtle box pleating effect to maintain that old-world charm when paired with short kurtas. 

In an interview, Girotra talks about the new collection, his international expansion, what keeps him inspired and style trends of the year. Edited excerpts: 

‘Ek taar’ and ‘salma sitara’ work stand out in the ‘Lohri’ collection…

What makes us unique is the blend of ek taar, salma sitara and Kashmiri ari in our designs—all timeless traditions stitched into every piece. 

I love playing with old-school embroideries that give clothes a classic, timeless charm. Having said that, I try to do a mix of different traditions and cultures every now and then. From the lovely Phulkari to the intricate patola weave, my designs carry a bit of everywhere. 

It (the journey) all started with the patola weave, but you’ll find a touch of Kutch and Gujarat artistry in my work as well. While Lohri gets its Punjab vibe from tilla, gota, aari, mirrors, and vibrant Phulkari colours, there are no strict rules in what I create. 

It’s about freedom and telling unique stories through every piece, celebrating the beauty of different cultures.

You’ve been retailing in the US for over eight years now. How’s the response been?

My journey in the US retail landscape has been nothing short of extraordinary, with our flagship store standing for over three years in vibrant locations like New York, San Francisco and New Jersey. 

The game has totally changed, thanks to social media. People know exactly what they want. I love when girls walk in with screenshots, all set on what they want for different occasions. 

What’s really cool is the appreciation and respect they show for the craft and the designer. There’s this wonderful vibe of respect and admiration for the Indian craft and the hands behind it. 

What influences your design process?

Travel plays a very important role in my designing and especially when I’m on the flights and I’m on the streets of different countries, roaming around, window shopping, eating out. 

I move around with my notebook. I’m never without one; you never know when an idea strikes. Even during personal breaks and holidays, I am thinking about design.

The Indian resort and bridal market has always had similar offerings given the safe taste of the demographics. Do you see shoppers warming up to experimental and edgy styles?

Absolutely. I’m a firm believer that today’s clients want an effortlessly chic style. They’re all about that easy-breezy vibe. What makes the brand popular is… there’s this wonderful paradox where the outfits exude grandeur visually, yet when worn, they’re easy-breezy and hassle-free.

Grooms out there are also breaking free from the beige and ivory crowd. They’re embracing a more adventurous spirit, playing with colours, experimenting with combinations, and exploring diverse silhouettes—all while having a good time with their fashion choices.

What will be the big 2024 fashion trends?

Reuse and repurposing of the garments will be key in 2024. Fashion will be more easy and fun. It is important to remember that fashion is ultimately about personal expression, so the most important thing in 2024 will be to not be serious and go with the flow.