The rebel chic theme was on the moodboard of several designers that showcased as part of the Milan Fashion Week, which ended on 25 February.

Donatella Versace, for instance, infused her fall-winter 2024 outing with a touch of quiet rebellion. The collection was one of her bold and daring outings in recent times, with crafting singular silhouettes where tailoring was disrupted with drape, and print was deconstructed and distorted into embroidery.

At Gucci, Sabato De Sarno attempted to stage an array of subversive acts with regards to the rules of ready-to-wear: Car coats were worn with matching vests and shorts came embellished with sequins. MSGM’s Massimo Giorgetti offered zippers and studs in suits. Both Bottega Veneta and Marni, meanwhile, presented exaggerated outerwear, from textured car coats to geometric capes, treated with a feathery and spikey finish.

Here are some trends that stood out at the Milan Fashion Week.

Heritage fabrics rule

From the Prada show on 22 February
(AFP)

Tweed and tartan were seen across the board, from Alberta Ferretti and Antonio Marras to Prada.

At Versace, the creative head employed atelier Versace fabrics, first reengineering them and then crafting them into tweeds punctuated with crystals. They were then turned into mini-skirt suits or jackets, styled with stirrup leggings and ballet flats. At Fendi, designer Kim Jones sublimated his Romanesque tailoring with Aran knitwear, jersey and mink corduroy.

Double-breasted tailoring is here to stay

From the Fendi show on 21 February
(AP)

Many designers opened their shows with a double-breasted skirt suit. At Tom Ford, an array of double breasted black coats and blazers came accented with glistening gold buttons. Ferragamo’s opening look was a double-breasted peacoat worn with matching tights. Fendi’s first two looks echoed similar tailoring while slightly evoking Japanese construction techniques.

Many versions of slip dresses

Milan’s queen of chiffon, Alberta Ferretti, presented an array of slip dresses full of sequins. Dolce & Gabbana’s négligées, meanwhile, had satin lapels. Fausto Puglisi at Roberto Cavalli showcased crinkly slip dresses that looked like they were tie-dyed. Tom Ford offered beaded flapper dresses and diaphanous catsuits, showcasing how to blend .

OTT bags

During the Fendi show, models were seen carrying new soft versions of the Peekaboo bag that came attached with lollipop holders. The luxury house also unveiled two new bags, a midsize satchel, named Simply, and a larger rounded shopper, the Roll.

Miuccia Prada suggested a new way to carry one’s handbag: the models wore bags suspended from mini-belts.