Underpainting, blinding highlighters, loose powder all over the face—social media generates new make-up trends almost every week. Many of these techniques are aimed at a younger audience interested in hiding their age rather than highlighting their unique features. 

Finding make-up for those over the age of 40 that makes them feel great can be tricky. Mature skin is typically drier, and layering too many products, whether it’s foundation, primer or lipstick, is not the best idea, given they might make pores and fine lines more visible.

Make-up artists suggest simple techniques that can be used everyday to help those with mature skin look their best.

Prep time

No amount of concealing and layering of products will help the skin if it is not hydrated enough, a rule that applies to all kinds of skin at any age. Using excess product can be an issue if one has mature skin, for it can settle into creases and pores and highlight them.

“When we are younger, the skin’s elasticity is at its best, hence the prep can be basic. But as we age, the skin loses a lot of its natural barriers, making prep crucial,” says Mumbai-based celebrity make-up artist Billy Manik. “A good skin routine is a well-primed skin (essentially, well moisturised and hydrated). That’s a golden rule.”

Next comes the base, and it can be tempting to pour creamy foundation straight on to the skin, as you see influencers do. Stop right there, cautions Manik.

Less is more with foundation, she says, insisting that the key is “hydration and light, well-blended make-up. Instead of going for a thick base or a matte finish, opt for a high-quality hydrating product and focus on blending with the lightest layers and try using it only where needed, such as on dark/red spots or pigmentation.”

She also prefers lightweight foundations to thick foundations as does Mizoram-based make-up artist and trainer Mazari Thangluah.

Thangluah often uses Estée Lauder Futurist Hydra Rescue Moisturising Makeup Foundation and Chanel Les Beiges Water Fresh Tint, as they hydrate the skin.

When it comes to using concealer for correcting and coverage, Thangluah suggests going lightweight again, with a focus on sheen to get that dewy and translucent effect. She prefers hydrating concealers like Laura Mercier Real Flawless Weightless Perfecting Concealer or Elf Hydrating Camo Concealer when working on mature skin.

Powder power

Celebrity and entrepreneur Kim Kardashian might have popularised baking, or setting the make-up with extra loose powder that can be dusted off later, but too much powder can emphasise skin dryness.

“Using a little luminance and hydrant base helps. Every skin is different so use powders in limited quantity, and only if needed, not because it is a trend,” suggests Manik. “I would also keep contour on mature skin very limited. More like a shadow, no harsh lines.”

Thangluah prefers pressed powders over loose powders for sagging skin. “If loose powders need to be used, I recommend using light brush techniques instead of packing it on,” she says.

For blush, opt for cream-based ones. They give a more natural blush. Powder works well only in one area—filling in brows, which get sparse as you grow older.

Colour me pretty

Some beauty products really sing on the mature skin, like matte eyeshadows. If you want to add shine to the eyes, skip glitter. “Go for products that are jet-milled (finely milled) in case you want some shine,” says Manik, whose go-to eyeshadows are by MAC and Patrick Ta. If you want a lifting effect around the eyes, go for a thin winged eyeliner, and don’t go too heavy on the mascara.

For lips, Thangluah says creamy lipsticks and liners are the best bet. Matte lipsticks tend to exaggerate lip creases. If you really want a matte lip, look for formulae that give a soft matte finish that don’t accentuate the creases as much. “If you are going to use soft matte, prep your lips thoroughly by applying a balm,” says Thangluah.

Highlight with caution

Online make-up tutorials may promote shimmery priming oil and highlighters but in real life, too much highlighter, much like foundation, primer and everything else, is a no-no. Thangluah prefers not to accentuate mature skin using highlighters. “Subtle highlights just on the high points are enough,” she says. She generally uses Hourglass and Becca highlighters for their natural effect. “It is important to enhance the beauty of ageing skin with lightweight and subtle make-up, and not transform them with modern, thick, and heavy trends defined by youth.”

Dhara Vora Sabhnani is a Mumbai-based journalist.