Mumbai-based designer Payal Singhal will mark 25 years in the fashion industry in 2024. To begin a new phase of her eponymous label, Singhal presented a demi-couture line (in association with Coach) at a show in Mumbai earlier this week.

Titled Fashion In Motion, the collection was presented at St Regis Mumbai on 29 November. 

Singhal, known for prints and easy bohemian silhouettes, created movement in her garments with the help of sheer overlays, fringe hems and signature tassels (even on menswear). A sweet touch to the show was seeing Indian supermodels Ujjwala Raut and Carol Gracias grace the ramp together after a while. Both the outfits worn by Raut—a mesh skirt and top overlay worn with a floral embroidered crop top and skirt, and a gold and pearl bustier and cutout skirt—showed how Singhal and other Indian designers have adapted to the Y2K trend of fishtail and column skirts. This silhouette was seen in every designer’s collection this year, be it Manish Malhotra or Shivan Narresh. 

The colour palette was a mix of festive winter colours such as ivory, gold, and even brown, with sparks of coral applique, embroidered flowers, and minty blue pastels. 

Every outfit had something in motion. Be it the printed, one-shouldered blue kaftan with a bead fringe on the hem worn by model Pia Trivedi, heavily embroidered cut-panel hems, lame sarees worn with exquisite blouses with bead danglers, even a floral garland sleeve, which was one of the best design highlights in the show. Slit skirts had beaded fringes, and ruffled sheer overlays on pants were worn with equally delicate yet colourful crop tops. The kaftan worn by model Diandra Soares had a cool drawstring hem. Other silhouettes included dhoti pants, poncho tops (often used by Singhal), saris and a blazer.

From ‘Fashion in Motion’ show

The show was a delightful balance between delicate fabrics such as organza and georgettes and heavy zardozi, beads, gold and pearl embellishments. The whole collection looked easily wearable and comfortable for the the wedding season.

Dhara Vora Sabhnani is a Mumbai-based journalist.